On Saturday we did go and watch the Irish play the All Blacks at “The Tara Irish Pub” on Rokin in Amsterdam. There were hundreds of bicycles and people everywhere on the way which is unusual and it was very difficult to negotiate our way through the crowds and the bicycles to proceed to the Pub to watch the game.

We just could not believe how many people were about. Generally we choose to not come into Amsterdam in the weekends over spring and summer because it one crazy place full to the gunnels with tourists. We come in the weekend right now only to watch the rugby.

One of the problems of not knowing the Dutch language well enough, and therefore not being able to fully read the papers, compounded by not having a TV which would surely have alerted us to the “Protest” against funding cuts for the ARTS – here in the Netherlands is that we arrived in the midst of the gathering and may have made different choices with regards to the rugby had we known.

I am stunned. The politicians have said that they find the arts and culture a waste of money and have called arts & culture a left-wing hobby. Why – it is a major part of what brings people (tourists) to the Netherlands and it is one of the Netherlands important income streams – and they want to knock it firmly on the head for the future.

For me, it was the arts and culture that brought me here as well as the proximity to the rest of Europe and our son who lives in Switzerland. I won’t speak for Best Beloved but I am thinking that it is the same for him.

But back to the Rugby – which is where this started. It appears that it is mainly Irish pubs that show rugby and we have watched rugby in Rotterdam, Amsterdam and Haarlem. Cafe Pitcher in Haarlem showed the 6 nations tournament last winter and sadly is not showing this round otherwise that is where we would be there.

Tierney’s is the Irish pub in Haarlem now, and it is also a very nice little pub, but being aged (me) and with an unstable neck I do not like looking up at a screen. It is also absolutely wall to wall with people and the noise is tremendous.

The Tara, if you like is a nice pub with many screens and the opportunity if there early enough to sit without straining the neck and view the game. So it was fine at the TARA as it is a very civilized Irish pub – and we being very civilized people from NZ – we cheered as one should every good move from both sides, and groaned for every bad move for both sides. In fact we cheered and encouraged the Irish across the line and were sad they didn’t get there.

BUT we are certainly very glad that the All Blacks won of course.

And along with civilized environment the Irish are also very civilized people and always treat us very well. We have never had any difficulty watching the All Blacks play Ireland in an Irish pub.

So we have not lost the plot and rushed into the Lions Den when watching the Irish play the All Blacks at an Irish Pub.

We (Best Beloved and I) shopped in Haarlem for a few important things – like coffee, tobacco and Dilmah Supreme Ceylon tea. You do know of course that tobacco is not important to me, but along with excellent coffee and tea tobacco keeps Best Beloved on good behaviour.

And we purchased Christmas lights, Christmas presents, saw a few of those Zwarte Pieten, ate a beautiful steak pie from an Organic Pie maker at the market in Grote Markt, tried olives on our journey through the market. In short we had a lovely day.

Something we knew was that the All Blacks would playing Scotland in the early evening our time here in Haarlem. It is not always easy to know these things as we do not have a TV, the local papers never mention Rugby and sometimes we do not check the computer for news of interest to us as expats. Rugby becomes quite important when away from home. I am not suggesting that it is not important when at home – there it takes on a stronger level of passion and drama. Best Beloved watches during the night with a friend, another John. I go bed, close all the doors between us, fully expecting the two Johns to be down and out as they suffer so during the games – heart attacks or strokes seem imminent. I rarely join them because it feels like the “sky is falling” when watching the games with these two.

Anyway we really must have been just a bit discombobulated – the game was at 6.15am New Zealand time. That is now 6.15pm Netherlands time and I am guessing 7.15pm Scottish time. I assume the game was played in Scotland. At about 8.30 or so, after a few wines in the late afternoon with our Californian neighbours, and a simple diiner of steak and chips; I said to that Best Beloved who was lying on the couch listening to Jazz and thinking all was well in the world, “Rugby”!

We went downstairs, added the requisite layers and wandered out into the night to the local Irish Bar. You remember the one, Tierneys, who said they would have the game on for us on a previous occasion where there was no game. That bar. That Irish humour.

We wandered through the little streets, past the little red light district to the little pub. Hardly anyone there. Looked in the window, rugby was on the screen. Best Beloved stamped out the remainder of the pipe he was smoking. We walked in, the channel changed and it was advertising a dreadful looking boxing match on pay TV.

We were so discombobulated that we had missed the entire game. It was game over, finished, finito – gone burger.

I just checked on the computer this morning and the All Blacks won 49 over Scotland 3.

Best Beloved did well. He had a Guiness, I had a sparkling water and then we wandered off home again. I guess if we had hurried down the stairs we could have experienced the after the match raves – but at 49 – 3 that may not have been so interesting.

We will be watching the English / All Blacks Game at “The Tara” Irish Pub in Amsterdam on Saturday 6th November at 3.30pm. It is a great pub, no smoking, lots of screens and if we get there early enough will not have to damage our necks to view the screen.

It is not often that we benefit so much from being in the Northern Hemisphere, for to see this game New Zealanders need to be up at 3.30am. I love watching the All Blacks, but not at 3.30am in the morning.

I hope they do rather better than they did last week when they lost to the Wallabies. Best Beloved was almost in an apoplectic rage – so much so that I threatened to leave him there in the pub and go home. I am pleased to report his health is recovering slowly after this extremely negative health event.

I might have to take my knitting to keep me calm.

An interesting knitting group creating All Blacks sweaters for charity which culminated in a visit from some of the All Blacks, along with a cup of tea, cup cakes and the impromptu teaching of knitting. Maybe when their sports careers are done and dusted they may remember that they do know the knitting basics and start a new career.

Who knows

my knit site if curious

Yesterday, early evening, Friday 22nd October, we were in Amsterdam and were looking for and found the map shop – Pied a terre, to start finding maps for our proposed bike ride from the Netherlands to Switzerland. We found said shop. Said shop is huge with more maps than you could ever ever imagine exist – but that is another story.

On the way towards the Central Station for the quick journey home we happened upon an Irish pub, and we were certainly in need of a quick pint having walked several k’s on this autumnal evening. Outside said pub, was a sign stating they were showing the England / All Blacks game tomorrow.

We thought great, we knew the All Blacks were coming to Europe, but didn’t know a game was to be on today.

In trying to establish just where this game might be shown in Haarlem we visited two prospective establishments last evening. Cafe Pitcher where we watched 6 nations rugby last season and Tierney’s Irish Pub. The Pitcher said Tierney’s always show the games. So off we went to Tierney’s to check them out, and yes they said, of course we will be showing the game.

The enthusiasm didn’t seem quite right – so this morning I have checked the various Rugby websites

England plays the All Blacks on the 6th November

So there is no rugby today after all.

Why would an Irish Pub in Amsterdam have a sign out saying they are to show the All Black / England match at 12 today, Saturday 23rd October – when it is not being played for another 2 weeks.

Is that an example of Irish baloney?

Thanks all for playing along.

What to do when you are on the other side of the world and feeling sad?  Go to Rotterdam on a Saturday, of course.  So we went, on an overcast Saturday morning, to look at the architecture of Rotterdam and (we thought) to see, close-up, one of the seven wonders of the modern world, the sea-wall defences of Rotterdam’s harbour and beyond.  These things allow the marine wetlands to remain marine, but can be closed in times of storm-surge to protect the land from the worst of the North-sea fury.  Fury indeed – in 1212, a storm-surge flood killed 60,00o people here.  Since the ninth century, there have been twenty-eight major flooding events, each one killing thousands of people.  That’s nearly three times per century.  The last biggie was in 1953, with 1800 deaths.

So we were keen to see first-hand what the Dutch have come up with to protect themselves and the natural environment at the same time.  Alas – our research was inadequate – we arrived in Rotterdam at ten AM to find out that the defences are actually 96 km from Rotterdam, and that the next public transport opportunity would have us arrive at three PM.  And that the whole shebang is closed to the public at 5:30 PM.  We also found that they all-day guided tours of all of the sea defences, but only on a Wednesday!  (Oh well, we will plan a break later this month and go there on a Tuesday evening, do the tour on the Wednesday and carry on to Belgium to visit Brugge and Antwerp and maybe Ghent.)  So, what to do next, in Rotterdam with no other plans?

We had a coffee, then went to an information centre where we found that there is a Matariki exhibition of Maori artefacts in one of the main centres.  What a fine irony, we thought, let’s go there.  Bugger – one has to make an appointment two days in advance.  (Sigh) – add that to the plans for the return visit.

OK, that leaves the architecture.  When the Nazis invaded the Netherlands in 1940, they gave the Dutch an ultimatum – surrender or we’ll bomb Rotterdam into oblivion.  The Dutch, knowing what the Germans had done in other countries, and without air defences, did the wise thing – they surrendered.  The Nazis went on ahead and destroyed Rotterdam anyway, with no apparent reason other than to demonstrate to the rest of the world that they could.  After the war, Rotterdam was rebuilt in a modern style.  Now, there are two ways to do build large-scale in a modern style.  One is to do it as cheaply and unimaginatively as possible – that’s what the Belgians did in Brussels, a town so ugly that the French coined the term “Bruxellation” to mean any very ugly urban reconstruction.  Brussels in not in our Belgium “must-see” list.  The other way is to insist on high standards in both aspects of architecture – functional engineering and art.  That’s what they did in Rotterdam.  And in their own way, the buildings of Rotterdam are as admirable as the fine old buildings of our beloved Haarlem.  We saw, we marvelled, we photographed, until we grew hungry.

On a whim, we turned away from the complex of buildings close to the station, toward the centre of town.  On the way was an Irish pub called O’Sheas Rotterdam showing the Bledisloe Cup match on a huge screen.  We had a table with a great view of the action, ate lunch and had a couple of drinks – dry whites for my Darling and pints of Guinness for me.  Served in plastic glasses, for heaven’s sake, as there was a Carribean summer carnival beginning in town, and the police didn’t want drunken hoons using beer or wine-glasses as weapons.  While we were there enjoying the food, atmosphere and the game along with a group of very happy Kiwis and some very quiet others (Ockers, perhaps?), four armed police arrived.  One stood outside while the other three went through the bar to ensure nobody was drinking from a glass.  The All Blacks triumphed over the Wallabies, to our great pleasure, and on screen Graham Henry raised his arms in delight while Robbie Deans frowned.

It feels very satisfying, to be half-way around the world and and able to watch the Bledisloe, especially when you did not even know it was on at that time.  And especially when the ABs win.

I nearly forgot – 6 Nations Rugby tomorrow at the Cafe Pitcher. Best Beloved will not forget and I hope you don’t either. We will be in the Netherlands for about another 18 months or so and there will be more Rugby to see like the Rugby World Cup – I hope we will still be able to see it here in Haarlem.

So there you have it – Cafe Pitcher has a bar, Dart boards, interesting photographs, interesting art directly on the walls, well labelled toilets, my table, my knitting and I understand they also hold jam sessions on Sundays, and wait for it – they currently show Rugby Football on a very big screen.

Come and check it out tomorrow – Wales against Italy at 3.30 local Haarlem time. The Cafe Pitcher in English and in Dutch. Unfortunately the website does not mention the rugby.

But believe me it is on. See you there.

We went to the Cafe Pitcher to watch the French / Italian game today, and what a game that was – all that passion on the field, and me, being me, I am so glad it was not a walkover.

But there you go again – I am digressing. To get to the Cafe Pitcher today we walked there via the Grote Markt, (town square), and there right across the square I could see the concrete balls.

That is the cold concrete balls of Haarlem are now sitting on the side of the road waiting to be reinstalled. Some of you are aware of my Balls in Haarlem story and some not. So if you do not know the story do check out the link and see just what the Balls of Haarlem are all about.

But back to the Rugby, which had actually been the original intent of this post, Rugby football.

Where are all the expats? This is a great venue, you can actually see the rugby on the very large screen, and you can actually hear the commentary. Don’t stay away – we do not want to lose this link to Rugby in Haarlem, and we will if you do not join us.

So far we have had an audience of a Dane, a Frenchman, a Fijian, a New Zealander, and 3 Dutchmen with serious rugby interests and interesting English and Irish accents, and a few assorted others who did not let us know their background. We need many more people at the Cafe Pitcher to view the rugby next Saturday.

What will you do when the Southern hemisphere rugby is on – go into a crowded, noisy pub in Amsterdam? Why? You can’t hear it, although you can see it if you are lucky.

We have done that and this is so much better.

We wandered into Cafe Pitcher on Saturday 27th – to see the 6 nations Rugby battle continue and to grab our table, the one where I could knit as well as watch the screen should I wish to. There were a couple of young men already at the bar. I pulled out my knitting and one of them said “I see you have your knitting”, What? and then he said “I read your blog”. What – you read my blog?

“Yes”, he said – in a perfect English accent, “that is why we are here” and the other young man spoke with a perfect Irish brogue. Okay – it turns out that they know Camiel, who originally commented on the blog. And Camiel arrived – perfect Irish brogue, what else. They were an interesting group – nattering away to the barman in perfect Dutch without the English or Irish accents. Silly me – I said “where did you learn to speak Dutch so well”? – answer of course – “here, and we are Dutch”. Wow.

I am glad it was dark, although I am no longer easily embarrassed, age helps that. These three with perfect English and Irish accents are actually Dutchmen. They have lived in Ireland or in England and are all passionate about rugby and it seems Irish rugby most of all, and just maybe, particularly passionate, when it is the Irish against the English.

During the first game there was a lot of enthusiastic calling for the Italians – and it turns out one of these young men has a sister who lives and works in Italy. I guess he might some issues when Italy played Ireland, but then again, maybe not.

It was brilliant – they sang the Irish Rugby Anthem – Ireland’s Call with such power and passion, we were all mesmerized. I wish I had recorded the singing – it really was fantastic.

Others came into the bar, and just sat silent, maybe they were nervous about being English, this being a very passionate afternoon.

It was a great being there, watching the rugby, knitting and listening. I do hope we all meet again.

Yesterday – we went for a bit of walk to the old Irish Pub in Houtplein in Haarlem, to discover a revamped, modern club like pub where they were playing vinyl records of Hammond Organ pieces from the 50s, believe it or not.

And no television in sight so no more football.

They very generously told us that football, that is Rugby football can be viewed at the Café Pitcher, in Koningstraat Haarlem. Now of course I didn’t know 6 nations rugby is currently being played. I do now.

As it happens we didn’t know where Koningstraat was, but did happen upon it simply walking home down one of roads while avoiding the Grote Markt – where a market was on. Café Pitcher was closed so we had no idea what was in store for us. But helpfully the sign outside said that they open at 2 and rugby would be on.

We went home, off loaded our shopping and wandered back – planning to be there around 2 to be certain of a seat. Seating was no problem – we sat at a table positioned well for the huge screen. There was the barman, and a young man from Fiji, who plays rugby for an expat team in Den Haag. So we four watched the rugby together. Several times I lamented that I didn’t have my knitting with me, which you might think odd, but I am a serious knitter just as the blokes around me are serious rugby commentators.

We watched the Welsh / Scottish game and what a game it turned out to be. We walked home between games and I collected my knitting – which right now is a black ball warmer for a cold ball in Haarlem – and just as well because the French / Irish game was not so interesting. Our huge audience of 4 became 5 with the addition of a Frenchman. We were all very generous in our praise of the activities in the games. The commentary was very refined – I think that it helped that there were no Fijians, no All Blacks, no Aussies, and no South Africans teams playing.

Knitting black yarn in a dark pub is not easy – but I managed.

If you want a great little pub with a great big screen, it is here in Haarlem at the Café Pitcher in Koningstraat.